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I have a favorite site for (various) neglected ruins on the west side of Crete. Very peaceful there – despite the cicadas.
The nearby highway is a different story.
Crete is an island of total jerk-offs who will aggressively pass you in the opposing lane of traffic on a blind turn in order so that they might make it to their six-hour coffee sipping session 10 seconds sooner. And they will honk and glare at you as they pass by, instead of watching the road.
I went to one of the more famous coffee-sipping dives in Kissamos. The place is called “Taverna Petra” and it has the best (locally produced!) house wine I’ve ever tasted. Bright, ruby red – and seemingly 20% alcohol.
The outdoor seating provides a small reminder that this taverna is actually built on a traffic island (what they prefer to call a “square”) with tiny Eurocars maniacally zipping by at absurd rates of speed while you eat. The agrarian ceiling provides some compensation for this setting.
My salad was served with a spoon for some reason, so I got a plate of briam (μπριάμ) to accompany the spoon.
